This is the first article that I am writing, recalling the frustration I had for a long time. On GardenVive, I prefer to suggest only the organic ways. But this time, I will be the aggressive one. I will write some methods to get rid of Torpedo grass (that actually works).
Last year, someone asked me, "How do I get rid of torpedo grass?" and my answer was like:
You don’t…their roots go so deep, and when you weed and think you have gotten it all…wrong..you spread the seeds, and it will come back in even more… I have covered the area with thick cardboard, watered well, and covered it with mulch. It lasts for a few months and then keeps repeating.
But I asked myself: Does that help it go away?
I knew- not completely, but it kills most; it regrows if it gets sunlight.
Gardening is not only about growing plants that you like. A lot of beginner gardeners forget the term "maintenance". Killing weeds falls under the maintenance category.
As a Florida gardener, dealing with torpedo grass was my biggest challenge.
Raised beds with a barrier beneath them and, even then, that damn grass finds a way in.
Get rid of torpedo grass with chemical products
There is a product I have personally used, and it has been very effective. As long as you're following the directions, it doesn't affect ornamentals. It is called Fusillade II.
Spraying the torpedo grass as you go along, trying not to spray anything else. There is one kind of turf grass that doesn't like it very much. But it escapes me. It's a little pricey but worth it. It can take as many as 3 applications.
The 4 oz. size will leave you wishing you bought the quart size. 4 oz is only enough to make 6 gallons of spray.
Fusillade II, which is systemic (which means it travels through the roots) that will take care of the torpedo grass.
It will require multiple applications. So when you buy it, buy the quart size. I'm in South Florida and am getting good results.
This is one of only a few herbicides I have found that only kill the weed and not ornamentals, and it's safe for turf grass.
It's about $90 for the quart size. 4 oz. It is about $40. I have struggled with torpedo grass for a while, and this is the first time I've seen anything be able to even come close to destroying it.
Patience is a key factor if you decide to go this route. As I said earlier, it takes multiple applications. Make sure to follow label instructions.
I did my last application 3 weeks ago and will do another in the spring around 1 March or maybe even as early as 15 February, depending on how hard the winter is.
The question: how to get rid of torpedo grass, is incomplete as it depends on where it is.
If it's in the grass, what kind of grass do you have?
For open areas, Gphosate will do the best. In plants, Fusilade II can be sprayed over the top of many different plants to kill them without killing the plants.
You have to check the label, and if you're not sure, do a test spot. Some plants will yellow a little, but you can have them bounce back with some nitrogen.
You mix it with a sticker. The best time to spray is in summer when you can get 3 or 4 good applications on it. Torpedo grass goes into dormancy and will return in the spring. If it's really bad, it can take a few seasons to eradicate it.
Note: It may seem Glyphosate will not get rid of it. It will come back. You have to keep spraying it. It won't go away with one or two applications. My uncle has been in professional lawn maintenance for over thirty-five years now, and he has eradicated it on several properties. It just takes vigilance.
In open areas, if you like chemicals, Ranger Pro is systemic and will kill it in a week, but will need a second hit. Other than that, pulling it is the quickest, but you have to get it from the root.
I also tried using glyphosate mixed with a surfactant in a syringe. A few drops on each tuft of grass is enough to kill it. It takes multiple applications as new shoots pop up, but it's much less labor-intensive than digging and doesn't harm nearby plants.
Natural ways to get rid of torpedo grass
Torpedograss is one of the most noxious weeds in North America. I hate it SO MUCH. The only thing I've had success/luck with is finding other ground covers to choke it out. In one bed, I'm planning sunshine mimosa and fertilizing it. In another area, the creeping sage volunteered (birds planted it), and it totally took over. Would rather have that than torpedograss!
I spray mimosa monthly with a seaweed kelp Foliar Spray. Really helps! Gets thick fast.
What to do when torpedo grass grows into the root balls of other plants or trees?
My sister was fighting a year-long losing battle with torpedo grass. It grows into the root balls of my citrus, bananas, whatever it can, and the rhizomes are a foot deep sometimes, making it hard to fully eliminate them as the roots break off the rhizome when pulled, leaving it hidden down deep.
She typically hand pulls weeds. She hates to poison where she plants, but is getting tired and desperate.
Nothing stops torpedo grass naturally but shade. Shade the weeds. You grow other companion plants with the banana and citrus. Green mulching
You can put down a weed barrier or cardboard. Then mulch over it. Might have to just dig up your plants, barrier the whole area. Then make a small hole just big enough for your preferred plants.
Ground cover that will eliminate torpedo grass
As I said earlier, mimosa is a good option.
Oyster plants work great as they start to grow closely packed together.
I will give you some extremely great advice. You need to get rid of that torpedo grass! If not, it will come up through your newly planted plants, and you will hate it.
This is a horrible weed that will take over and ruin the look with new plants.
Now is the time to get rid of it. It has to be sprayed more than once; you can eventually get rid of it, but due diligence is needed. Once it's completely gone, then you can add new plants. Use Fusilade on it, and it will work.
If you feel this article helped you, please subscribe to this site to help me keep writing more for you.
